Host Karl Traubel's Experience

...was the question Andi Heckmair asked me last summer. He’s a veteran of the MTB scene—the founder of the legendary mountain bike crossing of the Alps and the son of the first person to climb the Eiger North Face. I agreed on the spot.

Having completely forgotten about it, he reminded me in May that we’d be setting off in two weeks. “Remember, we’re biking with Kiwis—they’re wild dogs and they ride in any weather…” (Translation: I’m reminding you—these are New Zealanders, excellent cyclists who won’t let adverse conditions deter them!). Well, Andi picked me up in Balderschwang at 10 p.m., and after a 17-hour drive, we arrived in San Sebastián in the Basque Country, completely exhausted. The other participants all looked like decent, friendly people. None of them were exactly young anymore, ranging in age from 42 to 77. Some were a bit on the plump side, a few had varicose veins, legs ranging from bow-legged to knock-kneed—men and women alike. It was hard to imagine that they were supposed to be so “wild.” The next day we set off: 125 km, 1,900 HM. We were divided into three groups; the first was led by a semi-pro guide from the Czech Republic named Richardo. This group included riders with about 10,000 kilometers under their belts. I joined the second group, led by a guide from Russia named Vladimir. The third group was led by the head of Global Adventure, Ralph Freemann, a Bavarian who left his home state of Bavaria to run this globally active cycling tour company. This group also included four e-bike riders, among them my friend and buddy Andi.

I’d only had 300 km under my belt before that—all ridden on the Rohrmoos loop and in the Bregenz Forest, just here and there between work and downtime. I’d better not reveal the internal monologues I had with myself during those first three days.

THAT FIDLA REALLY MADE ME CRY.

(My backside was definitely making itself felt.) So we covered just under 1,000 km over those 10 days. Then, on the last day, we were proud and happy to receive confirmation at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela that we had completed the Camino de Santiago “in accordance with the rules.” In between, we didn’t stay in the rudimentary pilgrim hostels—which can’t be booked in advance—but rather in fine 4- or 5-star hotels, as befits discerning pilgrims. According to Wikipedia, 237,812 pilgrims were on the trail in 2014. On foot, by bike, on their own donkey, or as “soft pilgrims” on a tour bus—those who walk only a few kilometers to collect the required number of stamps in their pilgrim’s passport. I enjoyed the journey—this country, the ancient, historic cities, with their simple, unadorned churches where faith is palpable, all the way to the magnificent cathedrals that were built centuries ago with an immense effort I can scarcely imagine. I am grateful that I was able to experience the route in good health, and I tip my hat to those who make their way along the path for weeks and months on end. In my thoughts and prayers, I was often with my family, friends, colleagues, and guests. There is a special spirit along the way—it’s something unique that I cannot put into words. I thank you for reading this far, and I wish you good health and God’s blessing.

Balderschwang on Corpus Christi 2015

Yours, Karl